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Everybody has their own version of restaurant love at first sight. Some people swoon over a joint with 25 beers on tap and a selection of crisp, golden-brown fare from the fryer. Others go for minimalist décor, tiny plates of architecturally arranged food and a cadre of model-thin trendy folks. For me, it's about a cozy environment, thoughtful staffers and a menu that appears to take both food ethics and taste into account. Of course, for the place to keep my affection, the offerings have to tantalize my tongue, too.
Montpelier's Kismet meets the requirements. Located in a tiny space on Barre Street, the breakfast-and-lunch eatery has a friendly, crunchy vibe and serves food made from materials sourced almost exclusively from local farmers and producers. The ingredient information page on Kismet's website reads like a Who's Who of quality Vermont vittles: The chicken hails from Misty Knoll, various vegetables from Cate Farm, and the tofu is produced in Hardwick by the Vermont Soy Company. Sea salt and seaweed are shipped from the not-too-distant coast of Maine.
Thirtysomething co-owners Alanna Dorf and Crystal Maderia speckle their menu with tempeh, tahini and whole-grain breads, but this isn't the spartan "health food" of earlier eras. Some of the fare sounds downright decadent: for instance, polenta with eggs and ham; "Parisian toast" — i.e., a croissant served with hot chocolate for dipping; and a sweet buckwheat crêpe with macadamia nuts, ginger, chocolate and honeyed chèvre. At the same time, Dorf and Maderia note on the menu that they can easily accommodate diners looking for gluten- and dairy-free foods, as well as those who eschew milk and protein from animal sources. The children's menu is the healthiest-looking I've ever seen.
As 2007 waned, I used a trek to Montpelier as an opportunity to try Kismet's artful salad of mesclun greens topped with grated beets and carrots, goat cheese, pea shoots, pomegranate and sunflower seeds, accompanied by a warming bowl of squash soup with a swirl of crème fraîche and a side of crusty bread. After the holidays, I returned with a couple of friends to sample more of the menu. After all, how many restaurants make their own butter and ketchup, or serve their miso-ginger salad dressing in cute ceramic cups? I was also swayed by pleasant memories of Kismet's truffles and maple hot chocolate, which can be dolled up with spices and flavorings such as cayenne, "Latin spice" or rose.
Since Kismet offers an extensive non-alcoholic drink menu, featuring fresh-squeezed juices, soothing cups of warm miso or chicken broth and a few café-style caffeinated offerings, we immediately ordered a round to shake off the January chill. (Though the dining area is bright and cozy, the set-up is such that whenever a new patron opens the door — a regular occurrence on a recent Saturday morning — a gust of frosty air sweeps the room.)
A tablemate who's accustomed to the ultra-sugary "Oregon chai" was surprised by the Kismet chai latte, which tastes more like spices than honey or milk. I appreciated the heady blend of cinnamon, ginger, cardamom and nutmeg. A hot ginger and honey drink was a little more startling to the palate — extra gingery and not so honeyed — but the friend who ordered it finished the whole mug.
The table's favorite potion was a surprise: a sweet and earthy dandelion latte, made from house-roasted organic dandelion root, maple syrup and a choice of milks. (I opted for the atypical hemp variety.) Unlike the other two beverages, this one had a prominent but not overpowering sweetness, thanks to the syrup. It was good enough to order over and over.
Then our meals arrived. The huevos rancheros were hearty enough for a lumberjack, with enough leftovers for a second breakfast. The two eggs — cooked "harder" than I would have preferred — came on a bed of crispy polenta and smoky salsa, with a mess of local black beans and some strips of glazed tempeh on the side. The whole was topped with melted raw-milk cheese, and arrived with a side of carrot-cayenne hot sauce. The tempeh was the best I've had, and the combo of salsa, eggs, cheese and polenta was delightful. The beans were cooked to just the right tenderness, but needed a few sprinkles of sea salt to pep them up. Some additional salsa would have done the trick, too.
I was less impressed with the Kismet Benedict, which came on slices of croissant with a side of extra-crispy bacon. The hollandaise sauce was a shocking shade of yellow, but the flavor quotient didn't live up to the color's promise — the concoction lacked the gently tangy, ultra-lush quality of the best renditions. With the meat on the side, the bread, egg and sauce trio felt lacking somehow. Luckily, the eggs were perfectly poached, and the blend of just-right roasted roots on the side was a refreshing alternative to standard home fries.
The best of the three entrées we tried was the "I Am Beautiful Crêpe," which I was embarrassed to order but thrilled to eat. The buckwheat wrapper held a generous portion of poached chicken, goat cheese and pesto topped with pea shoots, and arrived swimming in a luscious pool of lemon-scented cream. This dish also came with the robust roots, leaving us too full even to think about a dessert crêpe. All this local, organic food and drink rang up at just over $40 — comparable to a conventional eatery with similar quality and portions. Cash came in handy, though — Kismet doesn't take plastic.
Like many of today's conscientious young restaurateurs, the owners of Kismet aim to offer cuisine that's eco-friendly, healthy and delectable. With a blend of grace and intensity, they accomplish it better than most.
Press release
To be released December 9 through December 21.
Re:
Kismet Birthday Bash and Red Carpet Open House
December 21, 2007
207 Barre street Montpelier Vermont
Kismet Celebrates What Is Meant To Be
(montpelier, vermont) After one full year and nearly 8000 meals served, Kismet of 207 Barre street, Montpelier, Vermont, will roll out the red carpet and throw their very own Birthday Bash. Kismet Owners, Alanna Dorf and Crystal Maderia, plan to transform the tiny breakfast/brunch space, for one evening, to mark the first anniversary of their new restaurant and successful catering business.
“ This party gives us an opportunity to connect with our restaurant customers, neighbors, and catering clients alike. Many people still don’t know we’re here and many have tried either our restaurant menu or have experienced our catering, but few have sampled both”, Says Crystal Maderia. “We have a great thing happening here,” says Alanna Dorf, in regards to their local foods menu and personal relationships with their customers and employees, “and it’s exciting every time a person comes in and says ’wow!, I’ve never been here before.’ We made it through our first year, and it’s time to celebrate with our regulars while opening our doors to people who have been wanting to check out what we’re all about.”
Restaurant regulars and catering clients will enjoy samplings of Kismet favorites, like their dandelion lattes, hot chocolate, and even a variety of their house made butters to take home, as well as an eclectic assortment of creative tapas that Kismet will feature on their catering menu. In addition, guests will be able to meet with and sample products from other local food producers featured on the kismet menu. Nutty Stef’s Granola, La Strada Bakery, Red Hen Bakery, Awake Coffee, Jasper Hill cheese company, Butterworks Farm, Winding Brook Farm, Vermont Foods Distributors, Patchwork Farm and Bakery, and local farmers will be joining the kismet staff in celebrating the business’s first year.
“We never really had a ‘Grand Opening’,” say’s Crystal, “maybe because our opening has been more gradual- like a slow unfolding…As we get more comfortable, more used to this whole endeavor, we open up more and more while at the same time learning how to maintain our own personal bounderies and the well-being of the business. The mark of our first year is really big for us. We both have given so much to this business, and the business has given to us both in such an intimate way. We are ready to celebrate that, and can do so with a confidence we didn’t have a year ago.”
“December 21 marks the shortest and darkest day of the year” remarks Alanna in regards to their one year anniversary and the date of their open house celebration, “and is a perfect example of what we do here. We are constantly trying to make more out of less, make things brighter, to find balance and to stay connected to what is happening in the world around us”. The red carpet will be rolled out on December 21, and doors will open at 5:00 pm.
For more information about their business, or to browse their menus or photos, the self designed website is very informative with links to Crystal’s book, local farmers and other food sources, and insightful information about the Kismet crew.
PRESS RELEASE IMMEDIATE RELEASE November 10, 2006 Contact: Crystal Maderia and Alanna Dorf , restaurant owners, Kismet 207 Barre Street Montpelier Vermont 05602 (802) 223 8646 Creating Kismet; a new Barre street business defines what is meant to be (Montpelier, VT) On October 2, two enterprising young women, Crystal Maderia and Alanna Dorf, quietly purchased Susan’s Kitchen of Montpelier. Nestled amidst the surrounding Barre Street development and construction, they began to renovate and transform the space into "Kismet". Kismet, defined as something serendipitous, will offer new features in addition to the previously available take-out and catering services. Despite the inevitable challenges associated with any new business, Crystal and Alanna agree that this endeavor has been kismet, meant to be. Business partners Crystal, 29, and Alanna, 32, combined their vision concerning food, business management, and consumer ethics to build on the success of Susan Reid’s eight year run of ownership of Susan’s Kitchen. Alanna and Crystal envision a menu of local artisanal grains, meats and cheeses, seasonal produce, organic single origin coffees, teas and spices, gluten free products and handmade organic chocolates. This menu is inspired by their direct and personal relationships to the central Vermont community and economy, Vermont seasons, local foods and producers, to their children and families, and to the native traditions and heirloom recipes of the world. This inspiration is further reflected in the interior decor (metal, concrete and wood), sign (salvaged slate), and by their logo (garlic with scape). Previous to purchasing the Barre street business, Crystal and Alanna worked with The Vermont Women’s Business Center and the Central Vermont Community Action Council to create a dynamic business plan that encapsulated their combined vision concerning food, business management, and consumer ethics. While carrying on with their respective jobs, Crystal as caterer, mother of 2 and cookbook author, and Alanna as caterer, mother of 2, waitress, student, soap maker and farmer’s assistant, they worked on their business plan for nearly 8 months. By researching other businesses world-wide that expressed similar perspectives together they created a plan they could deliver to local lenders. Then, in September, 2006, Crystal and Alanna got the response they were looking for. Community Capital of Vermont approved their application and was able to lend them $42,000 to purchase the existing business, expand and operate as Kismet, a caf and catering company offering "intentionally delicious food." Crystal and Alanna, with tremendous support from Design Builder and Furniture Maker Damian Taylor, began renovations on October 2nd to accommodate catering and take -out as well as 20 seats for breakfast and brunch service and plan to conclude renovations November 23rd. "The renovations have gone smoothly" remarks Crystal, "because we have been able to remind each other that what we are doing here is creating a space to celebrate each other and all of our passions. Every time we think things might not work out, they turn around and we are reminded to trust our vision and believe that it is meant to be." Kismet is located at 207 Barre Street in Montpelier, Vermont, off the bike path and next to the Community Land Trust buildings. Check out the website: www.kismetkitchen.com . Slide shows, information, and updates are made regularly on this sight and on their blog; www.kismetkitchen.blogspot.com . Contact Crystal Maderia or Alanna Dorf at (802) 223-8464. 
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